Moorish Spain Part 2

The next few days of our holiday were based at our cookery villa, up in the mountains and surrounded by olive plantations.

(this is the poor covered up dining table - did not get the weather for alfresco dining!)

They stretched for miles over the hills and mountains as far as you could see.

Cookery classes were each evening,  which gave us the days to strike off the tourist routes and check out the real Andalucia and its towns and villages.

We explored Priego de Cordoba.

The town centre was full of proud squares, fountains and civic buildings. 

By contrast, the old town was filled with flower lined alleyways, views over the mountains, churches and a castle.

The insides of the churches were very impressive

A fine way to spend a day building up an appetite!

Our poor little hire car was not well suited to the steep mountain roads though!

Our local village was called Iznajar. It is situated in a hill overlooking a big lake of clear blue waters. Utterly picturesque.

We climbed to the top to take in the view. Up there, we found a strange square dedicated to crochet.

Strange but pretty. Apparently a big thing with the locals as they even have their own blogging page. However as I don't speak Spanish I am none the wiser!



Our last local village trip was on our way to Granada: Montefrio. Another town on a hill that the region seems to go for.

It also had the biggest church dome I think I've ever seen! Modelled on the Pantheon in Rome.

Look at the railing and banner for sense of scale.

I liked our time in the countryside. Partly because getting out of town is nice anyway, but also getting off the main tourist trail, and discovering local bakeries and shops is good fun.

If only weather was a little hotter so we could have lazed by the pool or the lake. Ah well, not to be.

Coming next, Granada..............

Moorish Spain Part 1

So, about time I recount my Spanish holiday before it is all forgotten!

Having booked our cooking course, we decided to travel around a bit.

First we picked up our car and headed for the small city of Cordoba.

The city was very important in medieval times as a centre for Islamic learning when the Moors ruled Spain.

We decided to hire apartments in Spain, through airbnb.com. Here was our traditional apartment in Cordoba

 

The entrance was from a pretty courtyard, meaning that it was quiet from all the street noise. 

Alas we arrived on a rainy Sunday evening.

 

The place was pretty deserted.

 

 Apart from a few people hurrying to evening mass.

Us hardy Brits weren't to be stopped: we had a nice little wander of the town. 

We then ducked into a restaurant recommended by our host. I feasted on olives, and tuna.

The next day dawned much brighter, and we grabbed huge croissant and coffee in the local cafe.

But what was this strange breakfast ingredient in the jar?

 

Cordoba is full of little alleys and streets which were fun to explore.

But our real aim was to visit the Mezquita: the old mosque. The old courtyard and belltower still remain.

 

Inside the Mezquita there is a magnificent prayer hall, full of columns and arches. 

The mihrab: where Muslims face Mecca to pray.

 

Alas, since the time of the inquisition the Catholic Church took it for their own a slapped a big church in the centre of it.

  

The point where mosque becomes cathedral.

Thankfully they chose not to destroy it. However, the catholic church has clung to the building ever since, and barely recognise its history at all.

A real pity in a city once known for its religious freedoms and acceptance.

All this history made us peckish for some lunch. We feasted on tapas  nearby.

After lunch we wandered the historic streets some more, did some tourist shopping and admired the orange trees.

That evening we found a traditional wine cellar for Spanish feast of white gazpacho, eggs and fish stew.

Day 3

What? Rain again?! This is supposed to be Southern Spain.

Time to leave Cordoba for our cooking course, but we took a detour to the old city of Medina Azahara.

It was built just outside Cordoba as the new capital, but alas lasted less than 100 years. 

The rain got a bit much for even us hardy Scottish dwellers, so we headed for our next stop, and for cooking!